Silab has unveiled Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the French manufacturer, the ingredient targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, a process that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs. The launch is based on a new modeling study of menopausal skin conducted by Silab.
The company says ferritinophagy deficiency during menopause reduces bioavailable iron, which can lead to premature skin aging. Silab calls this phenomenon metallo-aging. UV radiation can amplify the process, according to the company, because it promotes degradation of iron/ferritin complexes and the massive, uncontrolled release of iron, resulting in significant oxidative stress.
Mechanism and claimed benefits
Metallomia is designed to relaunch ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. Silab says the ingredient facilitates iron provision and relaunches key epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, it is also intended to limit oxidative stress during UV exposure.
The described mechanism links iron handling to two stress conditions in menopausal skin. A shortage of bioavailable iron is associated with premature aging, while uncontrolled iron release under UV exposure is associated with oxidative stress. Metallomia is positioned at both ends of this sequence: it aims to restore controlled iron provision and to reduce the iron/ferritin complexes that can release iron excessively.
According to Silab, this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In Caucasian volunteers, the company reports that skin was revitalized after 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days, according to the manufacturer. When applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the ingredient prevented lipid peroxidation, Silab says, and limited the appearance of redness within hours after exposure.
Marshmallow root and traced supply
For Metallomia, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has set up a traced supply chain with French partners. The supply has been validated against criteria in the European Pharmacopoeia and through authentication by DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots’ mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Formulation and positioning
Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is available in aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Silab says the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128. It also complies with international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan, according to the company.